Showing posts with label Clifford Harrison. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clifford Harrison. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Blissful Bacchanalia...

It's our 30th Wedding Anniversary, and there was no question where we wanted to go to celebrate -
Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Rd #100
Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 365-0410
http://www.starprovisions.com/
Chef: Daniel Porubiansky Chef: David A. Carson Sous Chef: Leonardo Iranzo Sous Chef: Brandon Hughes Baker: Dorothy Copenhaver Pastry Chef: Carla Tomasko 

We are huge fans of just about everything that owners/chefs, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison touch, but Bacchanalia is just very special.  Everything on the menu is organic and much of it comes from their farm (Summerland Farm).  This restaurant IS the definition of farm to table dining relying on fresh seasonal ingredients.  The menu changes regularly as a result. Here's a sample menu from their website:
FIRST COURSE
Hawaiian Hamachi (Japanese amberjack or yellowtail) ** Preserved Lemon, Shoyu, Radish Summerland Farm Kohlrabi Méthod Champenoise, Schramsberg, Cremant, Demi- Sec, Calistoga NV 20.
Local Berkshire Pork Terrine Pickles, Mustard Hazelnuts, Cranberries Madeira, The Rare Wine Co., Charleston Sercial 15.
Preserved Mushrooms Pea Shoots, Local Beets Elliott Pecans, Focaccia Pinot Noir, Alysian, Russian River Valley 2009 18./10.
Confit Foie Gras Torchon Local Pear, Spiced Cider Peanut, Shiso, Cocoa Sauternes, Chateau Laribotte, Bordeaux 2005 14.
Kumamoto Oysters, Sea Urchin ** Chowder Custard, Caviar Chervil, Phytoplankton Sauvignon Blanc, Chateau Guiraud, “Le G”, Bordeaux 2011 14./8.
Hawaiian Blue Prawns Pickled Celery, Celery Root Verjus Compressed Apples Pinot Gris, Domaine Schlumberger, Les Prince Abbés, Alsace 2009 14./8.
SECOND COURSE
Gulf Crab Fritter Thai Pepper, Avocado Asian Pear, Grapefruit Trimbach, Gewurztraminer 2009, Alsace 9./16.
Atlantic Red Snapper Salt Cod, Young Fennel Green Garlic, Hakurei Turnips Meyer Lemon, Fines Herbs Chardonnay, Domaine Alain Patriarche, La Monatine Meursault 2010 18./10.
Sweet Potato Agnolotti Rainbow Chard, Pickled Stems Black Garlic, Georgia Pecans Crispy Sweet Potatoes Chardonnay, Evening Land, Edna Valley 2010 16./9.
Nantucket Bay Scallops Jerusalem Artichokes, Cauliflower Watercress, Truffle Vinaigrette Chenin Blanc, Domaine Des Baumard 2008 14./8.
Glazed Veal Sweetbreads Summerland Farm Chestnut Blood Orange, Radicchio, Pecans T empranillo, Muga Reserva, Rioja 2007 16./9.
Hand Cut Farm Egg Pappardelle Farm Egg Emulsion Summerland Farm Cauliflower Chardonnay, Domaine Alain Patriarche, La Monatine
2010 18./10.
Shaved Perigord Black Truffles (40. Supplement)
THIRD COURSE
Summerland Farm Egg Rye Fregulini, Butternut Squash Smoked Maitake, Black Bread Flowering Herbs, Ash Syrah, Delas, Les Launes, Crozes-Hermitage 2010 16./9.
Jamison Farm Lamb Roasted Autumn Roots Sorrel, Natural Consommé Brunello de Montalcino, Castiglion del Bosco 2006 25./13.
Manchester Farms Quail Anson Mills Farro, Parsnip Preserved Pears Black Trumpet Mushroom Pinot Noir, Archery Summit, Premier Cuvée, Willamette Valley 2010 18./10.
Wood Grilled Prime NY Strip** Summerland Farm Carrots Potato, Celery Root, Turnips Farm Egg Emulsion, Broccoli Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Craig, Affinity, Napa Valley 2008 25./13.
Local Berkshire Pork Pot Likker Jus Anson Mills Oats, Lacinato Kale Local Oyster Mushrooms Merlot, Pride Mountain Vineyards, Napa County/Sonoma County 2009 25./13.
FOURTH COURSE
Buffalo Milk Ricotta Campania, IT Toasted Oats, Local Pear Cranberry, Lemon Mint
Caromont Dairy Esmontonian Esmont, VA Autumn Citrus Pistachio, Radish
Bucheron Celles-sur-belle, FR Spaghetti Squash Truffle Vinaigrette, Pickled Onions
Flat Creek Lodge Georgia Belle Swainsboro, GA Ellijay Apples, Frisee Spiced Walnut
Chapel Hill Creamery Dairyland Farmers Cheese Chapel Hill, NC Roasted, Raw & Pickled Beets Pine Nuts
Blackberry Farm Blue Walland, TN Local Arugula Candied Pecans
Selection of Cheese from Star Provisions (10. dollar supplement) Porto, Warre’s LBV 2001 12.
FIFTH COURSE
Coffee Flan Ice Milk Granita Brioche, Espresso Banyuls, M. Chapoutier, 2010 15.
Winter Citrus Sorbets Meyer Lemon Tangerine Blood Orange Jasmine Gelee, Puffed Rice Orange Muscat, Essensia, Quady Vineyard 11.
Lime Soufflé Basil Gelato Candied Ginger Brachetto d’Acqui, Banfi, Rosa Regale 2010 10.
Valrhona Chocolate Hazelnut, Cornmeal Frozen Orange Custard Royal Tokaji, 5 Puttonyos, Hungary 2007 14.
Pear Brown Butter Tart Candied Walnuts, Dates Cardamom Ice Cream Far Niente, Dolce Napa 2006 15.
Valrhona Chocolate Cake Mint Ice Cream Porto, Warre’s 20 Year Tawny 14.
2.14.2013 PRIX FIXE: EIGHTY FIVE DOLLARS
It's hard to know where to start to cover this fabulous Atlanta icon? Here's a view from the parking lot on Howell Mill Road:
Photo Credit: The Coolist
You enter and walk through Star Provisions to get to the restaurant area.  I love perusing the latest fun holiday decor (in this case, Easter), cooking utensils and dishes along with various home decor and more.  There's also a small sampling of locally grown organic produce, a cheese shop, a wine shop, a bakery, and a specialty fish and meat market. We then went to the back host area and were directed to our seat.  When you walk in to the main restaurant it's dark, with simple decor, but it's very soothing and inviting - a total departure from Star Provisions.

Photo Credit: Yelp Reviews
You have a view of the magic from the kitchen from just about any seat.
Photo Credit: Yelp Reviews
We've been to Bacchanalia numerous times, but on this visit we were seated in a very romantic corner of the restaurant.  It couldn't have been a better seat for our Anniversary! Here's a shot of the view from our corner niche:
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Our server, Jamie, immediately joined us. We received the menu and needed to select 1 item from 5 courses ( 5 - 7 options for each course). And wine pairings are optional.  You can also choose a wine "taste" with each course or a full glass.  We ordered a couple of specialty drinks (Dark and Stormys made with house-made Ginger Beer and topped with fresh lime zest-yum!) while taking the time to decide.



Soon after sitting down  the fun begins at Bacchanalia.  We were presented with an amuse bouche - 4 gougeres.  They are baked savory little pastries made of choux dough (a light pastry dough) mixed with cheese such as gruyere.  So so good!  It whets your appetite and leaves you wanting more!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
After that, and making our dinner decisions, we were next presented with another chef's selection: a sweet potato soup taste along with two bite sized crunchy treats which were raw turnips topped with a meyer lemon topping.  Unfortunately I can't remember the myriad of ingredients that went into each of these "bites" but trust me, they were delish!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
For our courses, these are what we went with:
Myself:

Preserved Mushrooms Pea Shoots, Local Beets Elliott Pecans, Focaccia Paired with a tasting of Pinot Noir, Alysian, Russian River Valley 2009 18./10. 
Crab Fritter
Local Berkshire Pork
Bucheron Celles-sur-belle, FR Spaghetti Squash Truffle Vinaigrette, Pickled Onions 
Coffee Flan

My husband:

Hawaiian Blue Prawns Pickled Celery, Celery Root Verjus Compressed Apples
Crab Fritter
Wood Grilled Prime NY Strip
Cheddar
Valrhona Chocolate Cake 

The Mushroom appetizer with Pinot Noir pairing and their yummy bread:

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Preserved Mushrooms Pea Shoots, Local Beets Elliott Pecans, Focaccia Pinot Noir, Alysian, Russian River Valley 2009 
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

The Hawaiian Blue Prawns Pickled Celery, Celery Root Verjus Compressed Apples:
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

I'd been craving this infamous crab fritter (Gulf Crab Fritter Thai Pepper, Avocado Asian Pear, Grapefruit Trimbach) since my last visit, and it didn't disappoint! It was just outstanding (unlike my photo!) along with a taste of Gewurztraminer 2009, Alsace (which was also outstanding!):
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

The main courses!  I went with the pork (and a glass of Merlot which I heartily consumed without photographing!). Local Berkshire Pork Pot Likker Jus Anson Mills Oats, Lacinato Kale Local Oyster Mushrooms Merlot, Pride Mountain Vineyards, Napa County/Sonoma County 2009.  The tender perfectly prepared pork tenderloin in the pot likker juices - OMG!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue





















My husband chose the NY Strip along with a great glass of Cabernet. Wood Grilled Prime NY Strip Summerland Farm Carrots Potato, Celery Root, Turnips Farm Egg Emulsion, Broccoli Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Craig, Affinity, Napa Valley 2008.  It was melt in your mouth good!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Next up - cheese course.  I went with Bucheron Celles-sur-belle, FR Spaghetti Squash Truffle Vinaigrette, Pickled Onions - one word describes this dish - - - WOW! The flavor explosion from the creamy cheese and spaghetti squash along with a tangy vinaigrette.  Unreal.
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
And the cheddar and apples:
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Then a palate cleanser was served.  I couldn't tell you what this bite of goodness was other than blood oranges, but it was so good!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
And we enjoyed some Rose Champagne that Jamie suggested, which was delicious to sip along with our desserts (and a surprise treat of a stack of triple cupcakes!):
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Valrhona Chocolate Cake Mint Ice Cream Porto - this dessert is their signature one.  It's basically a molten center chocolate cake but served along a dollop of mint ice cream and using the best chocolate on the planet = nirvana!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Our Anniversary cupcakes gift!
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Coffee Flan Ice Milk Granita Brioche, Espresso Banyuls
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

Grand Finale - Jamie knew we were filled to the brim, and she suggested we take home the final treats - chocolates, homemade tiny marshmallows and madeleines.  We did, but by the time we got home we had to have a taste.  And of course, everything was good.  Well done Bacchanalia!  And special thanks to Jamie - outstanding, knowledgeable, unassuming service. Just doesn't get any better.

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
We, as Atlantans, are so lucky to have such a gem in our city.  The food, atmosphere and service are the best in the city.  This restaurant epitomizes fine dining as it should be.  Expensive? Yes, it is, but it's a quality dining experience you can't duplicate anywhere else.  Already looking forward to my next special occasion at Bacchanalia!  


CHEERS!  Here's to 30 more!


Saturday, June 30, 2012

A bite at Abattoir...

I've been dying to try this restaurant!  We've been longtime fans of Bacchanalia. Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison, owners of Bacchanalia, Floataway Café, the Quinones Room at Bacchanalia and Star Provisions, have opened Abattoir - their most casual of the group.  A quote from their website:

 "
Abattoir is an American chophouse specializing in the use of locally-raised proteins and vegetables to produce high-quality, affordable food."


ABATTOIR
1170 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, 404-892-3335
starprovisions.com


Abattoir is located around the corner from Bacchanalia on Howell Mill.  There is valet parking, and we drove up and were out of the car and up the stairs in no time.  


The entrance:




We entered the restaurant (away from the 110 degree outside temperature in Atlanta that day!) and were immediately greeted by the hostess, who was adorable and friendly.  We had early reservations (6:15PM), so the restaurant was not even half full when we arrived.  But we were seated at a fantastic table in the dining room.

The interior has such a great vibe - eclectic - open exposed ceilings but with rustic decor.  



Photo Credit: Cate Bogue




















We were quickly meeting our server who was charming and knowledgeable.  We had to decide on drinks to start off the evening.  They had a selection of 6 fun cocktails, and we chose 3 of the daily specials - A Sour Wood Smash, a Hemingway Daiquiri and a Jalepeno Tequila drink that was to die for!

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


All three drinks were fantastic and fresh.  We sampled and passed around to each other (reluctantly!)










A picture of their menu du jour - it changes often.

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


















A sample menu from their website:

Photo Credit: Star Provisions

Now it was onto to the hard part - deciding what to eat off this fabulous menu.

While we were enjoying our drinks we ordered the crudites and hummus to nibble on - best ever!  And the pita bread arrived warm and soft and quite amazing.


Photo Credit: Cate Bogue






















We decided we couldn't resist the appetizers, so we ordered more, and opted to share 2 entrees for the 3 of us.  Here's what we went with appetizerwise:

Local Beef Tartare (with jalepeno, pinenuts, asian pear)


Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


Octopus dog, teriyaki, pickled ginger

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


Photo Credit: Star Provisions


Pork belly and pate, pickled vegetables, thai pepper

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

Photo Credit: Star Provisions


These dishes were divine.  All were unique and exquisitely prepared.  The chef (Tyler Williams) came over to see how we were enjoying ourselves, and we fell all over ourselves complimenting the dishes.

Photo Credit: Star Provisions


Here's his bio:

Tyler Williams may have grown up in the small town of Okemos, Michigan, but he didn’t grow up with a small-town palate. As a child, Williams became friends with the son of a Lebanese family and quickly became enamored with the culture and cuisine. And as he grew up, Williams was enthusiastic about all things new and different in food and culture, eventually studying cultural geography at Arizona State University to satiate his inward wanderlust, topping it off with a degree from Western Culinary Institute.
After culinary school, a worldly Williams moved to Portland, Oregon, to work at Genoa, where he rotated menu leadership with two other chefs. But his culinary experience really took off when he headed to Chicago. After working for several months in the front of the house at 2005 Chicago Rising Star Homaro Cantu’s Moto, he took a position at Graham Elliot, where he was inspired by the chef’s whimsical and nostalgic style. Williams later worked as chef de cuisine atGemini Bistro, where he defined his own playful, global approach.
Williams came to Atlanta to work as sous chef in Anne Quartrano’s fine dining houseBacchanalia in summer 2010. Even though he hasn’t lived in Atlanta long, Williams has quickly found a home in the eclecticism of the ATL culinary scene. As chef of Quatrano’s meat-centricAbattoir (literally defined as a slaughterhouse), Williams brings his vivacious personality and open-minded palate to the fore, with fun dishes like root beer barbecue sauce-laced wagyu beef belly and seafood sausage on monkey bread. That creative spirit helped earn him a place in StarChefs.com's class of 2012 Atlanta Rising Stars. With a dedication to local, organic proteins and vegetables (Williams is a member of Slow Food USA and Georgia Organics) his cuisine is addictive and classically farm to table, aka pure Atlanta.

The octopus dog was the hands down favorite.  Here's the recipe:

Octo Dog:
4 pounds octopus
3 pounds lean chicken meat
4 pounds pork fat
5 garlic cloves
125 grams salt
4 grams Instacure #2
40 grams dextrose
20 grams nonfat dry milk solids
Ice cubes
Sheep natural casings
Teriyaki:
1 cup soy sauce
1 cup sugar
1 cup rice wine vinegar
1 cup mirin
Spicy Mayo:
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sriracha
1 teaspoons ghost chili hot sauce
1 teaspoon lime juice
To Assemble and Serve:
Clarified butter
Hot dog buns
Red jalapeños, diced
Sliced pickled ginger
Chopped cilantro
Toasted sesame seeds
Dried hijiki seaweed

METHOD:

For the Octo Dog:
Using the smallest die setting on a meat grinder, grind the octopus, chicken, pork, and garlic three times. Partially freeze. Fold in the salt, cure, dextrose, and milk solids. Place in a food processor with a good handful of ice cubes and spin until emulsified. Pipe into sheep casings and cook in a combi oven until the internal temperature reaches 150°F.
For the Teriyaki:
In a medium saucepot, combine the soy, sugar, vinegar, and mirin. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
For the Spicy Mayo:
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sriracha, hot sauce, salt, and lime juice.
To Assemble and Serve:
In a cast iron skillet, melt the clarified butter and toast the hot dog bun. In the same skillet, brown the Octo Dog. Apply a healthy strip of Spicy Mayo in the bun. Put the dog in bun and drizzle with Teriyaki. Use the Teriyaki as glue to apply desired amounts of jalapeño, ginger, cilantro, sesame seeds, and seaweed.

Not something I'll be preparing at home, but when I go back to Abattoir I'll definitely order again.

Fresh from the oven piping hot bread and farm fresh butter was delivered next.

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue


On to the entrees...

Tough choices.  My husband chose their signature burger (which has been said to be the BEST in Atlanta), and my daughter and I decided to share the lamb.

Leg Of Lamb, Lamb Sausage, Tomato, Hummus

Photo Credit: Cate Bogue

Wow.  The lamb was deboned, sliced along with lamb sausage (featuring lamb tongue), and served on a bed of hummus with heirloom tomatoes.  It was delicious, savory and perfect.


Abattoir Beef Burger, Cheddar, Beef Bacon


Photo Credit: Cate Bogue
Wow #2.  The burger tasted as good as any steak I've tasted.  It was perfectly prepared (medium) with beef bacon and cheddar.  We ordered heirloom tomatoes drizzled with olive oil as a side instead of pommes frites.  It was very very good.








We were totally stuffed, and just relaxed and finished our delicious drinks instead of having dessert.  After all - the temperature was 111 degrees outside as we were driving to dinner.  But the trip to Abattoir was well worth it, and I would recommend (and WILL recommend) it to anyone.
Abattoir on Urbanspoon